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The original use for the jeans was for miners during the Gold Rush-opportunists at the very bottom of the working class, venturing to California with very limited means, fighting the wilderness, each other, and deadly diseases eager to get a piece of the pie. Image via LongJohn. A century of truckers and blousons, however, has made for a multitude of models that many devote their lives to cataloging. Much of their original archives were destroyed in the San Francisco earthquake in and subsequent fire. One has to rely heavily on the knowledge of collectors and enthusiasts, communicating through cyberspace and sharing on various forums and blogs, their finds and findings. Sometimes incorrect, poorly written, badly translated or based on counterfeit products, these pieces of information are hard to trust, but that same uncertainty is what keeps the treasure hunt going, and what has kept it going for centuries now. First off, start by determining the design of your jacket.

Another sign indicating that you have a and not a later issue is the size of the label.

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Even if the label has come off, which is the case with a lot of these jackets, you should still be able to see a mark from where the label was.

The label is bigger and not as rectangular as the and later labels.

How to Date Levis

Image via Midwest Vintage. Later stamps indicated the factory in which the item was produced. Common 3 digit stampings are, and are commonly found on LVC reproductions. Image via. Image via Long John. With the above tools, you should be able to somewhat accurately date your jacket Type III jacket if not to the precise year, then at least get an idea of its worth and consequently bring it to a collector to look at.

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Many collectors can tell much more by touching and feeling the jacket and inspecting the denim for imperfections associated with vintage looms.

Other details like the thread older thread being cotton, then replaced with poly-blen rivets, etc. A killer vintage Type II jacket. Notice the short and boxy fit.

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General characteristics include:. The closest marker of its date is the patch label. Image via End.

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Sometime in the 50s these leather labels were replaced with press card labels as found on the later Type III jackets. Customized Type II jacket. Notice the writing on both sides of the Red Tab.

Dating levis

However, by their exclusive patent for riveted clothing had expired, meaning that other companies could use the same construction. Rare, unusual issues, like those from WWII are sometimes higher priced than those from the s.

But below are some questions to help you further determine the date of your jacket.

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The bronze slider buckles were also used after the war ended, until the cinch back was replaced with waist tab adjuster buttons on the Type II pattern in This was the last issue of the Type I jacket.

LVC Type I repro jacket back cinch. Image via A Suit of Tools. If your jacket has a silver slider with pin teeth, and the features from steps 1, 2 and 3 - then your jacket is very likely the issue. As previously mentioned, the Red Tab was introduced in to combat copyright issues.

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Care labels were sewn onto the outseam of the left leg and pocket bags were no longer printed with care instructions like previous models. Image via Levis Guide. Notice how much more yellow the arcuate stitching is on the earlier model as opposed to the copper-colored thread on the right.


By the s, the copper orange was the dominant thread color and by the end of the decade, the lemon yellow thread was phased out completely. Common places to find yellow thread:. The double-stitched s that were produced after went through a few changes after The simplest way to separate them is to look at the care label.

Notice how the patch butts up against the belt loop on the right side. On the E, washing instructions were included for the first time on the jean.

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This was several years before the FTC mandated care tags. Unlike the care label which was added in the early s, the washing instructions were printed on the right pocket bag. Image via Lurve the Thing. Since nearly the dawn of thea small watch pocket later dubbed coin pocket had been featured by the right-hand front pocket.

May 04,   Some of the most frequently asked questions we get are related to determining the authenticity of vintage jeans, especially vintage Levi's jeans. This article provides an overall guide to the eight details you should be looking out for when putting a production date to vintage Levi's jeans, exemplified with this rare pair produced. Examine the jean fabric. New Levi jeans use heavier denim, while other models, including the series, use thinner denim. Examining the fabric alone does little to date a pair of jeans; however, during times of cotton shortages, including during the s, jeans made from denim used thinner weaves. The denim also thins on well-worn. Nov 23,   The Levi's is slowly approaching its th birthday. America's classic pair of denim has gone through quite the evolution since its inception in The jean today is, although a different piece of garment entirely to the nineteenth-century waist overall, still referred to by its Lot number: Due to an earthquake and fire in which destroyed the Levi Strauss & Co. headquarters.

This was originally sewn on with a visible selvedge detail showing from the inside of the pocket. If they do have a selvedge watch pocket your s are produced earlier than and you can proceed to step 7. They were used to reinforce pockets on the first pairs of s and was what Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis patented and pioneered in From onwards, the rivets on the back pockets were sewn so that they were only visible from the inside, due to consumer complaints regarding scratching furniture and saddles.


Their justification was that the hard wearing rivets would eventually wear through the denim and thus become visible anyway. If your s have concealed rivets, they are from before and you can proceed to step 7.

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Note the yellow-colored top stitch on the waistband. If yes, your s are likely to be before Aroun the lemon yellow waistband thread was replaced with copper orange thread. Notice that the still had the v-stitch and no chain stitch on top waistband up until around According to Dr. Heech on Denimbro, this happened sometime during These features have remained a part of the patch moving around several times, e.

How to Identify Vintage Levis : Vintage Style

Notice how it sits slightly to the left of the center seat seam. This rule has its exceptions, so you can also look for letter stamps on buttons, typically letters like K or S or a number on the pocket-enforcing rivets.

If your s ticks one of these boxes please proceed to step 8.

If your s have a leather patchthey were produced before when the leather patch was phased out in replace of a thick Jacron faux leather patch. The curved design on the back pocket of our s are referred to as the arcuate. Notice the two colour threads too. If you have a pair that meets any of the below criteria, we recommend you take them to a vintage appraiser for a fair estimate of their value.

May 04,   Other era-specific detail is the lemon coloured thread. Levi's Vintage Clothing use it for the chain stitch on the , but it's not guaranteed to be there on originals; and it's also found on original s marionfoaleyarn.comlly, the used on the lemon coloured thread is rather inconsistent. Dating Levis does not have to be complicated and if you have ever wondered how old a pair of Levis are -then this brief guide will give you the basics to identifying and dating vintage Levi jeans. s - Last of the redlines. This is the last era of what is considered true .

During WWII regulations were made on production nationwide in order to ration certain materials like thread and metal. No arcuate stitch on the back pocket of these SXX, instead they were painted which has eventually rubbed off.

They wanted to keep their signature arcuate, which they instead put on with orange paint. Exposed rivets, belt loops, and no red tab on a pair of repro jeans. Image via The Half Bundle Prince. Fades on a pair of LVC repro jeans that feature suspender buttons, exposed rivets, and a back-cinch. Image via SuperFuture.

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