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During these challenging times, we guarantee we will work tirelessly to support you. We will continue to give you accurate and timely information throughout the crisis, and we will deliver on our mission - to help everyone in the world learn how to do anything - no matter what. Thank you to our community and to all of our readers who are working to aid others in this time of crisis, and to all of those who are making personal sacrifices for the good of their communities. We will get through this together. ated: March 29, Reader-Approved References. Ball mason jars are a type of home canning jar made by the Ball Corporation.

Rather, the mold number tells you where the jar was positioned on the glass-making machine that was used to produce it.

It may be worth something, but that will be determined by the size, color, age, and top. Check for jars with descriptions or pictures that match yours and see what they've sold for in the past by searching "Completed Listings". Not Helpful 3 Helpful I have a Mason Jar with the word Perfect mispelled as Perfeot.

This Bottle Dating page (and website in general) is designed to address what the website author refers to as "utilitarian" bottles & jars (click for more information). Utilitarian items makes up the bulk of the bottles produced during the 19th century and first half of the 20th century. Kerr self-sealing jars and the Kerr Economy were created in Alexander H. Kerr also founded the Hermetic Fruit Jar Company in the same year. San Francisco man Julius Landsberger patented metal lids fastened onto a composition gasket. Kerr used the patents to create a . Jul 19,   Ball mason jars are a type of home canning jar made by the Ball Corporation. The company started making mason jars back in , and many people today still use these for canning, or collect the jars as a hobby. There are many ways to date old Ball mason jars, and one of the easiest is to look at the logo. Along with the logo, you can sometimes 91%.

Is this a fake or reproduction? This is not a reproduction. You will find some jars with errors like that on them. Not Helpful 8 Helpful Not Helpful 13 Helpful I have a half gallon, ball blue, ideal wire side, with the dropped A.

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The dropped a without an underline is quite uncommon. If it has an underline, it is common. Not Helpful 1 Helpful Those gripper ridges were first applied to jars in by Brockway, then Ball. They help you grip the jar. Not Helpful 10 Helpful I have a half gallon aqua mason jar with Mason's N Patent Nov 30th on it. Is this a rare jar? I'm afraid your jar is not rare. There are many of them for sale online, and are not hard to find. Not Helpful 5 Helpful Most of the square jars were made starting in the 's.

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More modern made jars are a rounded square shape. Not Helpful 2 Helpful Some people collect these because they believe they are scarce. It is a myth that they were destroyed by superstitious moonshiners or housewives. This story was started by retailers trying to inflate the prices.

Not Helpful 6 Helpful I have an old ball canning jar that says "Sanitary Sure Seal" on the front below the word Ball. How old is it?

If the jar is blue, then it's like from the early s. More specifically, the jar is probably from between and The price of the jar will depend on the size and the condition. On 13, the bottom of the Ball Perfect Mason jar the 1 is backwards. Is this common? Errors in the molds are common in old jars because of how the molds were created.

Not Helpful 1 Helpful 5. Unanswered Questions. How do I tell the age of my half gallon mason jar? Have blue jar, Atlas, strong shoulder on front of jar?

Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered.

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Submit a Tip All tip submissions are carefully reviewed before being published. Related wikiHows. More References 4. About This Article. Co-Authored By:. Co-authors: ated: March 29, Categories: Featured Articles Kitchen Collectibles. Article Summary X To date an old Ball mason jar, look at the logo on the jar. Nederlands: Oude Ball Mason potten dateren.

Thanks to all authors for creating a page that has been rea times. Reader Success Stories. JK Joe Kr Jun 30, The Ball ID article was outstanding!

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AM Andrea Morin Jul 17, I purchased bottles at an estate sale. It enabled me to date bottles back to the Also, it gave me a lead on a jar that just says mason on it.

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Thank you! MR May Reed Jun 20, It was also helpful to know which markings to ignore. JN Jon Nelson Jun 8, I hadn't even noticed that before reading this article. JL Johnnie Lee Sep 25, Pursue these links freely since they will take a user to more details on bottle dating and identification and hopefully add to the users knowledge and understanding about the bottle being "keying out. The three questions found on this page below answer several basic questions about a given bottle.

Answers to these questions will then direct a user to one of the two additional dating pages which are extensions of this key for the two major classes of bottles: mouth-blown bottles and machine-made bottles.

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Read the questions - and accompanying explanations and exceptions - very carefully as the correct answer is critical to moving properly through the "key. For examples of how to use this dating key see the Examples of Dating Historic Bottles page.

Dating a Ball Mason Jar. Ball mason jars are still being produced up to this day and there are no signs of stopping soon. But if you're one of the lucky ones to have found an old Ball mason jar, or if you are an avid collector of such items, then dating these things is very important. The logo will tell you how to . Dating Old Canning Jars. I have a lot of old, vintage canning jars. I love the history they carry as well as their charm and character. While it is okay to use them for storage or even as a refrigerator container, you should never process old jars in a canner. The old glass can't take the temperature change and might shatter - which would. Look for jars embossed with the Atlas name in raised lettering. Take note of any dates or other information on the jars. The Hazel-Atlas company was in business from to During s and '50s, the company was one of the largest producers of canning jars along with competitors Ball and Kerr. Check the style and color. Only a few types.

This page guides a user through the key for seven different type and age bottles with several being side-by-side comparisons of very similar bottles of different eras. This page also shows how other portions of this website can provide information pertinent to the bottle in question.

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See the About This Site page for more information about the author and contributors. For brevity, most of the specific references are not noted in the key's narratives. They are noted on the other website pages which expand on the information summarized in the key. If you know your bottle is machine-made click Machine-Made Bottles to move directly to that page.

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If you know your bottle is mouth-blown aka hand-made click Mouth-blown Bottles to move directly to that page. If unsure about what embossing or vertical side mold seams picture below are, click on Bottle Morphology to see this sub-page for a illustration and explanation of these and many other key bottle related physical features.

Return back to this page by closing the Bottle Morphology page. Vertical side mold seam on the neck of a beer bottle ending well below the finish, indicating that it was at least partially handmade - ca.

Dating your Old Mason Jars Ball Canning Jars Ball Mason Jars Vintage Mason Jars Vintage Glassware Bottles And Jars Mason Jar Crafts Balls Dating Cap. It has a glass lined zinc lid that is marked "GENUINE ZINC CAP FOR BALL MASON JARS". The cursive word Ball looks like it has three l's pins.

YES - The bottle has embossing or visible vertical side mold seams somewhere on the body between the heel and the base of the finish or lip. A bottle may have mold seams but no embossing, but all embossed bottles were molded and have mold seams even if they are not readily apparent.

See note 2 below if there is embossing but it is only within a disk of glass which appears applied to the neck, shoulder or body of the bottle. This bottle is either free-blown"dip" molde or was produced in a "turn-mold" aka "paste-mold" where the side mold seam is erased during manufacturing. A "NO" answer is much less likely than "YES" for this question as a very large majority of bottles made during the 19th century and virtually all made during the 20th century were mold blown resulting in mold seams; see the note below.

Notes : 1. A low probability though possible "NO" alternative is that the user has an unembossed, molded bottle with no visible vertical side mold seams. This can be due to one or a combination of factors including post-molding hot glass "flow" masking the mold seams, fire polishing of the bottle body, or atypically good mold part s fitting precision.

If necessary, look very closely at the bottle shoulder - the best location to see vertical side seams on mouth-blown and most machine-made bottles - in good light with a hand lens to see if there is at least some faint evidence of where the mold part edges came together.

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Often the vertical side mold seams are evidenced by very faint changes in glass density in lines where one would expect mold seams to be. If the embossing on a bottle is only within a separately applied blob seal similar to that shown to the right click to enlargeand found nowhere else on the bottle, the bottle is almost certainly mouth-blown. This is another low probability choice but certainly possible. One of the longest running "myths" in the world of bottle dating is that the side mold seam can be read like a thermometer to determine the age of a bottle.

The concept is that the higher the side mold seam on the bottle the later it was made - at least in the era from the early to mid 19th century until the first few decades of the 20th century. Kendrick's explains in the text pages that It is true that the mold seams can be used like a thermometer to determine the approximate age of a bottle. The closer to the top of the bottle the seams extend, the more recent was the production of the bottle.

The chart accompanying this statement notes that bottles made before have a side mold seam ending on the shoulder or low on the neck, between and the seam ends just below the finish, between and the seam ends within the finish just below the finish rim top lip surfaceand those made after have mold seams ending right at the top surface of the finish, i.

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Although there are examples of bottles having mold seams that fit these date ranges properly, the issue of dating bottles is much more complicated than the simple reading of side mold seams. If it were that simple much of this website would be unnecessary!

For example, the process that produces a tooled finish frequently erases traces of the side mold seam up to an inch below the base of the finish whereas the typical applied finish has the seam ending higher - right at the base of the finish Lockhart et.

The reason this is noted here is that the concept keeps popping up in the literature of bottle dating and identification ranging from Sellari's books Sellari published shortly after Kendrick's book to as recent as Fike and Heetderk's For a broader discussion of this subject see Lockhart, et al. If unsure about what the liprimor finish of a bottle is, check the Bottle Morphology sub-page. Toledo, OH.

Aug 25,   Issued only from to , this jar could double as a dispenser for a coffee grinder. The short production window gives it considerable cache. VALUE: $1, 3. E-Z SEAL BY ATLAS. The amber hue is more than just decorative. When it was produced in , there was a misconception that the dark shade prevented spoilage. VALUE: $Author: Joshua Lyon. It would have been much easier if Ball had placed a date on each and every jar, but that didn't happen. Luckily, there are some tips and tricks you can use to determine an approximate age for your jar. First check the logo, which changed fairly frequently until about The earliest logo was the intertwined BBGMC-Ball Brothers Glass. May 8, - Explore kbreid68's board "dating jars", followed by people on Pinterest. See more ideas about Vintage mason jars, Ball mason jars and Ball jars pins.

This is a "machine-made" bottle or jar and will also usually have a highly diagnostic horizontal mold seam just below the finish base that circles the neck. The picture to the left shows both of these mold seams click to enlarge. If your bottle fits this description, click Machine-made Bottles to move to the related webpage which allows the user to pursue more information on bottles produced almost totally in the 20th century by some type of automatic or semi-automatic bottle machine.

The vast majority of U. The following is a discussion of the most common exceptions to the side mold seam "rule" describing a few types of machine-made bottles on which the vertical side mold seams do not quite reach the top edge of the finish making them possible appear to be mouth-blown.

Fire Polishing - Although infrequently encountered, machine-made bottles may have fire polished finish rims - a process which eradicated evidence of the neck-ring mold seam on the rim of the bottle. These bottles will not have the side mold seam proceeding from the upper finish side over and onto the rim itself.

Ostensibly this was done to remove the mold seam rim "bump" that was sometimes left by earlier machines - an action which may have helped facilitate better sealing with crown caps, screw-thread caps, or similar closures which sealed on the rim of the finish.

These bottles will, however, have the vertical side mold seam progressing all the way to the very top of the finish side, just not onto the rim.

The Collector's Ultimate Guide to Canning Jars

They will also have other machine-made characteristics as described on the Machine-made Bottles page. In the experience of the website author, these machine-made bottles are rarely encountered and likely a function of early machine-made wares to s that had less precise mold fitting and resulted in the need for fire polishing to facilitate proper closure function.

Milk Bottles - Many milk bottles made with press-and-blow machines from the very early s into at least the s resulted in vertical side mold seams that gradually fade out on the neck distinctly below the base of the finish.

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Click here for a picture of a typical s to s milk bottle. This exception to the side mold seam "rule" was caused by the specific workings of these machines which masked the upper portion of the side mold seam. Click on the image to the right to view both mold seam features pointed out on a press-and-blow machine manufactured milk bottle made by the Pacific Coast Glass Company San Francisco, CA. If your bottle is a milk bottle that fits this description, click Machine-made Bottles to move to the Machine-made bottles dating page for more possible dating refinement and to pursue more information.

The image to the left is a close-up of the shoulder, neck and finish of a small Sheaffers ink bottle click to enlarge for more detail. The image shows the vertical side mold seam ending on the outside edge of the bead finish at a "ring" mold the upper portion of a parison or "blank" mold induced horizontal mold seam that encircles the extreme outer edge of the finish.

The side mold seam does not extend onto the top surface of the finish, i. These features are pointed out - and much more readable - on the larger hyperlinked image; click to view.

The image to the right is a close-up of a small, medium green, machine-made ink bottle. As above, click on the image to view a larger and much more readable version with the various features pointed out.

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First check the logo, which changed fairly frequently until about Rejoice if you find one of those; Buffalo jars are pretty rare. They were first made in Buffalo in and for several years after.

Valuable Bottles to Look For in Old Trash Pits

But, you say, how can the date be correct, since you have a jar embossed with a patent date of That was the date when John Mason received his patent for the threaded screw-type closure, and it appears on many different brands of jars. How about that big number on the bottom of many jars? Does that help date the jar?



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